APRIL SPRING SALE! – 10% OFF ALL OVERLAP SHEDS, LOG CABINS AND PERGOLAS – PRICE WILL REDUCE AUTOMATICALLY AT CHECKOUT – ENDS 30TH APRIL 2024 AT 11PM.
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2. Shed base information:
All of our garden sheds require a firm and level base. When thinking about where the garden building and base is going to be constructed:
We do offer a Power Sheds Base kit as an optional extra.
The base is slightly smaller than the external measurement of the building, i.e. The cladding should overhang the base, creating a run¬ for water. It is recommended that the floor is at least 25mm above the surrounding ground level to avoid flooding.
If you have not chosen to purchase our Power Base then other suitable bases would include a concrete base (75mm of concrete on top of 75mm of hardcore) or a paving slab base (slabs laid on top of 50mm of sharp sand).
3. Fixing pack:
Your fixing pack will include:
4. Remove any transport blocks from the bottom of the blank and window panels. These are there to offer further protection to the bottom board of the panel.
5. Pre-drilling – In the instructions we will talk about screwing panels together. We recommend this is done with a drill. Here, we suggest that you pre-drill the timber with a 3mm drill bit before inserting the screws. This will minimise the chance the timber will split.
6. Lay down your floor panel(s) onto your firm and level base into the desired position of your shed. Be sure to consider any overhangs on the shed when deciding the correct position.
7. Join the floor panels together using the 50mm screws provided, using around three screws per join. At this stage you can also screw the two ‘heavy duty bearers’ which are two pieces of framing joined together, to each gable end (the end where the triangular ‘gable tops’ will go later’). Join the bearers by screwing through the floor joists first so the screw goes as far into the bearer as possible.
8. Your shed will either come with a single door or a double door depending on what you selected when ordering. Double doors are already hung on the door panel. However, for a single door you will need to hang the door.
For a single door you can choose which way round to hang it – left hand or right hand. (note – if you choose a left hand hinged door then the lock has to be unscrewed and positioned the correct way round as it will be upside down)
9. For a single door, lay the door panel on the floor (you can lie it on the shed floor if you wish). Line up the door onto the framing so that it is square. The door should be positioned closer to the side where the hinges go. Make sure the lock is on the inside of the shed when the door is closed. Secure the hinges in place using the 25mm screws provided.
10. Choose two places on the door to secure your two turn buttons – one towards the top, one towards the bottom. For double doors a turn button will already be secured. Be careful not to screw this too tightly or it will not turn.
11. Please ensure you have removed the transport blocks.
12. Your shed will come with a number of wall sections. The quantity of these will depend which type and size you ordered – there could be 4ft Blank Panels, 2ft Blank Panels, 4ft Window Panels (unless you have selected the windowless version), and a door panel (which could be a single door or double door). Please see the components table in your instructions to confirm which panels you should have for your Power shed.
13. Lay out the wall panels in the configuration you want for your garden building. The blank panels, door panel and window panels can go in any position.
14. Start with the 4ft panel that will be part of your gable end – position this on top of one of the heavy duty bearers which you attached in the previous section. Ensure the side of the panel is flush with the side of the floor.
15. Place another wall panel again secure using the 50mm screws provided. Important! – When securing panels together ensure they line up at the top (so the building is square) and that only the ends of the cladding are shown, which will later be covered with corner strips). This is only in the corner when the side meets the gable. You can choose the position of the doors and windows as you build the shed.
16. Continue doing this to place all remaining wall panels in position.
17. When you have secured all the wall panels you then need to secure these to the floor using 70mm screws provided. Screw into the floor with 2x screws for every wall panel (internally) ensuring the screws are driven through the framing at the bottom of the side/gable walls, through the floor boards and into the floor joists. Ensure all panels line up at the top.
If you have ordered an apex shed, follow these steps:
(for pent sheds, skip to step 33)
Gable Tops
18. Line up the gable tops with the panels at the gable ends (the ends where you attached the ‘heavy duty bearers’).
19. Secure them to the wall panels with 50mm screws from the inside, screwing upwards through the framing.
20. The trusses should be attached to the side wall panels with 40mm galvanised nails. The trusses will line up with the joins in the side wall panels. Ensure the end of the truss goes to the outer edge of the framing on the side walls and not the cladding (so the roof will sit right). Nail down through the truss and into the top of the side walls. Please note: You will not receive a truss for a 4×4, 4×6 or 4×8 shed.
21. Depending on the size building you have ordered, your roof panels will be 600mm, 1190mm or 1302mm long (note – the roof panels are not handed, it does not matter which way round they go and the tongue and groove does not need to interlock).
22. For 8ft wide sheds you may get other roof sizes with specific instructions for an 8ft wide roof. Therefore these roof instructions will not apply to 8ft wide sheds.
23. In general, the 1302mm roof panels will go at each end of the roof with the other roof panels central. This will ensure the joins in the roof panels line up with the joins in the wall and the roof trusses and the slightly longer 1302mm roof panels will mean there is an overhang at each end (except on the 4×4 and 4×6 Power Apex where there is no roof overhang). The only time the roof panels won’t line up with the truss and join in side walls is if you have positioned a 2ft side wall panel at one end – in this occurrence, the truss will line up with the join in the side walls panels but the join in the roof panels will be slightly offset to the truss.
24. There are batons to help join the roof panels together. If you start by joining the batons to the roof panels with 50mm screws as per the diagram below, and then place the roof panels in position (the roof panels are universal so can go on either side).
25. Start at one end placing a roof panel at each side and screw the roof panels together (internally) using 70mm screws.
26. You can then work down the roof adding and joining roof panels to the baton on the adjoining roof panels with 50mm screws and joining the roof panels to each other with 70mm screws until all the roof panels are on. There should be 6x screws joining the roof panels together every 4ft.
27. Ensure the roof panel overhang at each end of the shed is even – there should be an approx. 56mm overhang at each end. (note – there will be no roof overhang at the gable end on the 4×4 or 4×6 Power Apex). Then, screw the roof panels to the side wall panels with 50mm screws (ensuring you screw down in to every upright piece of framing on the side walls) and screw the roof panels into the gables at each end with 35mm screws (4x screws for each gable)
28. The roof now needs attaching to the trusses (if there are trusses). To do this, screw down through the roof panels and into the truss from the outside with 35mm screws ensuring there are 8 screws per truss (4x on each side).
29. Roll out the mineral roofing felt along the lower part of one side of the roof. Allow for sufficient overhang to fold down onto the roof framing (but not the underside of the roof).
30. Use clout nails to tack along the top edge of the felt and into the roof boards. Repeat this process on the other side of the roof.
31. If you have ordered a Power shed which is 6ft wide (4×6, 6×6, 8×6, 10×6, 12×6, 14×6, 16×6, 18×6, 20×6) then you will receive an additional piece of felt to then go on the ridge of the roof. This can be secured to the roof using clout nails. If you have an 8ft wide shed, you will receive another length of felt as well.
32. Fold the overhanging felt at the gable ends under the roof boards and tack into place. Note – The 4×4, 4×6 and 4×8 Power Apex roof panels will finish flush with the gables and so the felt will not tuck under.
For finishing touches see step 44.
If you have ordered a pent shed, follow these steps:
33. Add the pent front top to the side you want to be higher and screw to the panels below with 50mm screws.
34. Line up the gable tops with the panels at the gable ends (the ends where you attached the ‘heavy duty bearers’) and secure them to the wall panels with 50mm screws from the inside, screwing upwards through the framing.
35. Depending on the size building you have ordered, your roof panels will be 2ft, 3ft, or 4ft wide. Place the roof panels in place so that the framing on the roof panel runs parallel with the gables i.e. from the front high side to the back low side.
36. Make sure the framing on the roof is in line with the framing on the gable top so that the overhang on the front and back is correct.
37. Join the roof panels to each other and to the gables using 50mm screws, going through the framing from the inside of the building.
38. Then, screw the roof panels to the side wall panels with 50mm screws (ensuring you screw up through the framing from the inside of the building into the framing on the roof panels).
39. Before laying the felt, you will need to attach the back bargeboards with the 40mm galvanised nails. As you can see there are two for the back – one at the edge of the roof and one on the underside. These soffits may come in more than one section and may need cutting down to size with a saw depending on which size shed you have chosen. Be sure not to mix these up with the corner strips and cover lats which are to go vertically around the shed in corners and covering joins (explained later).
40. Roll out the mineral roofing felt along the lower part of one side of the roof. Allow for sufficient overhang to fold down onto the roof bargeboard (but not the underside roof bargeboard).
41. Use clout nails to tack along the top edge of the felt and into the roof board and the bottom edge of the felt into the back bargeboard.
42. Repeat this process along the higher part of the roof.
43. Fold down the overhanging felt on the gable ends and tack this into place. Front and side bargeboards will cover any untidy edges.
44. Using the 40mm galvanised nails, fit the bargeboards to the foot and sides of the roof. Again, these may need cutting down with a saw depending on what size building you have.
45. Secure corner strips at each corner of your Power shed with 40mm nails (at least four per strip). Extra strips are provided to cover any joins between side wall panels.
46. Secure the door pull to the door with 25mm screws.
47. Peel the protective blue sticker off the Power branding plate above the door.
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